Antoine Sanzay took back his grandparents' vines from the local cooperative in Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg in the late 1990s and has been quietly building one of Saumur's most reliable addresses ever since. Les Salles Martin is his Saumur Blanc, 100% Chenin from a small parcel of forty-year-old vines on clay over the chalky tuffeau limestone that defines this corner of the Loire. Fermented with native yeasts and aged in demi-muids, partly new, for around eighteen months, it is rich and ageworthy without losing the Chenin nerve. A Saumur Blanc that earns the long pour.