Bründlmayer is the standard-bearer of the Kamptal, Austria's great cool-climate region for Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. Ried Loiserberg is a classified 1 ÖTW vineyard—the Austrian equivalent of a Burgundian Premier Cru—and it gives Gruner with real cut and class: stony, peppery, and built around the grape's signature lift of white pepper and citrus. Farming is conscientious and the wines see neutral oak and large casks rather than anything flashy. A textbook example of why top-vineyard Gruner belongs in any serious white-wine conversation.