Bruno Clavelier is one of the quiet stars of Vosne-Romanee, farming biodynamically and turning out wines of unusual transparency and tension. Corton-Rognet is a Grand Cru on the Ladoix side of the famous hill, and Clavelier's parcel is planted to old vines—the source of this Vieilles Vignes bottling. At nearly fifteen years on, the 2011 vintage is showing its mature face: secondary aromas of forest floor and dried rose layered over still-vivid red fruit, with the structural lift Corton always brings. A Grand Cru drinking right in its window.