Muntanya means mountain in Catalan, and this is Can Sumoi's traditional-method sparkler from the heights of the Massis del Montmell. Pepe Raventos and Francesc Escala farm the estate organically and biodynamically at 600 meters, well above the heat of the Penedes valley floor. The blend is roughly half Macabeu and half Xarel-lo, fermented spontaneously, aged about ten months on the lees in bottle, and finished with no additions of any kind. The result has Cava's structural backbone but none of its industrial polish: lightly creamy, briskly mineral, and dry to the bone. Call it Cava's wilder, more interesting cousin.