Cara Sur is the project of Pancho Bugallo and Sebastian Zuccardi in the Calingasta Valley of San Juan — high desert country in the shadow of Cerro Mercedario, named for the harder southern face of that peak. They work ancient, pergola-trained, often pre-phylloxera vines of Criolla varieties, the heirloom grapes that arrived with Spanish settlers in the 16th century. This Criolla Chica (known in Spain as Listan Prieto) is pale, perfumed, and weightless — all wild strawberry, rose petal, and red-fruit lift, with the fine tannins and bright acidity that make this old grape such a revelation. Argentina, but nothing like the Argentina you think you know.