Calon Ségur sits at the northern edge of Saint-Estèphe, famous for the heart on the label and for one of the most Cab-dominant grand vins in Bordeaux. The 1996 vintage was a classic, structured, cool-year Médoc - the kind of wine that needs decades to come around, and the kind of wine that rewards the patience. Thirty years on, this is fully mature Saint-Estèphe: savory, earthy, tobacco-laced, with the firm Cabernet bones still holding the wine upright. Drink with care for the sediment.