From the northern Medoc, where the appellation broadens out toward the estuary, Chateau les Graves de Loirac is a small family producer making honest, traditional Bordeaux at very fair prices. The 2012 vintage is now well into its second decade, with the youthful fruit easing into the savory, cedar-and-tobacco range that defines mature Left Bank Bordeaux. A relaxed weeknight Bordeaux — Cabernet-led, well-mannered, ready to drink.