Sweet wines aren't in fashion, which means for wine lovers willing to buck a trend it is an opportunity. Rieussec is a Premier Cru Classé of the 1855 Sauternes classification, sitting on clay-gravel terroir just over the river from Château d'Yquem, and it has been steered by the Rothschilds of Lafite since the 1980s. 2003 was the heat-wave vintage in Bordeaux: intense, unusual, and for Sauternes a year of remarkably concentrated, almost exotic botrytis. Now mature, in the half-bottle format that suits a single meal, this is the easy way to put a great old Sauternes on the table.