Stephane Dupuch is the fifth generation of his family at Château Sainte-Marie in Entre-Deux-Mers, and Petite Marie is the white that captures the estate at its most playful and most honest. Sauvignon Blanc-led with Semillon for weight, including parcels of remarkable old vines (some over a century old, survivors of the catastrophic 1956 frost), it is farmed with a real eye toward organics and biodiversity. The result is salty, just-ripe peach with lime and lemon zest, a suave waxy structure and limestone electricity running underneath. Real Bordeaux Blanc terroir for a small fraction of what people pay on the famous side of the river.