A serious dry white Bordeaux hiding inside a Sauternes vineyard. Clos des Lunes is the project that Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier launched in 2011, when he took over a 45-hectare vineyard in the Sauternes appellation and decided to make great dry white wine from it instead. Lune d'Argent is the heart of the range: 70% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented with a touch of oak. The 2017 has the texture and weight you'd expect from old Semillon vines on Sauternes soils, but it's built around freshness — white peach, citrus, beeswax — and it's drinking beautifully now, with the kind of mid-palate depth that makes Pessac and Sauternes whites world-class.