Jean-Bernard Larrieu has been Jurançon's organic and biodynamic standard-bearer for four decades, farming steep, sunny vineyards in the foothills of the Pyrenees. This is his dry Jurançon — 100% Gros Manseng grown at around 400 meters of altitude on clay, silt, and puddingstone soils. The cool elevation and the variety's natural acidity give the wine its signature zing: citrus zest, white peach, green hazelnut, and a slight salinity on the finish. It's the kind of mountain white that wakes up shellfish and goat cheese without trying too hard, and a great introduction to a region that still flies under most American radar.