Two decades on, the 2005 vintage has arrived at exactly the moment Châteauneuf lovers wait for. Pascal and Vincent Maurel's old-vine cuvée at Clos Saint-Jean comes off the famed stony terroir of La Crau, a blend led by Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and the rarer Vaccarèse and Muscardin. 2005 was one of the great Southern Rhône vintages, balanced and built for the long haul, and this bottle now drinks in full maturity: kirsch and dried herbs giving way to leather, tobacco, and a long, savory finish. A finished wine, drinking in its prime, with the kind of resolved complexity you can't fake.