Jérôme Coessens' Largillier monopole in the Aube is named, in part, for the fossilized oysters — exogyres — embedded in its Kimmeridgian limestone soils, a reminder that this is ancient seabed. The Extra Brut Exogyre is the cuvée that most directly channels that marine heritage. Drawn from a perpetual solera started in 2006 and built from all four parcels of the Largillier vineyard, this multi-vintage 100% Pinot Noir wears its low dosage with ease, showing mirabelle, orange, cherry, and rye bread on a chalky, saline frame. Disgorged with just a touch of sweetness, it's grower Champagne at its most pure and site-driven.