Lagrein is Alto Adige's great indigenous red, and Colterenzio's classico is one of the most reliable ambassadors of the grape. Grown in the warm gravelly soils of Gries, a historic district of Bolzano, Lagrein gives a wine that looks almost black in the glass but drinks with a surprising lift: dark plum and blackberry, violets, a whisper of cinnamon and cocoa, and the savory, slightly bitter snap on the finish that's a Lagrein signature. The co-op's classic line keeps the winemaking gentle and the oak in the background, so the grape's character does the talking. If you've never tried Lagrein, this is the bottle to start with.