Blaufränkisch in Washington State? Yes, and from one of the more thoughtful young producers working there. Deru is Caleb Taft's project — a Bay Area wine and restaurant veteran who moved north to make low-intervention wines from interesting Washington sites. Blaufränkisch is the great red of Austria and Hungary, planted in tiny quantities in the U.S., and it finds an unlikely home in the warm volcanic soils of the Rattlesnake Hills AVA in the Yakima Valley. The result is a peppery, dark-fruited red with the grape's hallmark snap of acidity and savory edge — somewhere between a cool-climate Syrah and a Beaujolais cru, and unlike anything else in the Washington aisle. Pour it with a slight chill and a charcuterie board, and let people guess what they're drinking.