Jerome Bretaudeau is part of the new wave proving that Muscadet can be one of France's most exciting white wines. Theia comes from old Melon de Bourgogne vines planted on gabbro, a rare volcanic bedrock that gives the wine its distinctive saline grip and stony depth. Farmed biodynamically and raised on lees in concrete and large foudres, it sidesteps the lean, anonymous style of supermarket Muscadet entirely. Expect citrus zest, green apple, white flowers, and a long, briny finish that practically demands oysters.