Monthelie is the village tucked behind Volnay and Meursault, often described as the country cousin of those grander neighbors but capable of real elegance in the right hands. Etienne de Montille's holding sits on stony, shallow soils poor in organic matter, and the resulting wine is fine, lifted, and almost feathery in its delicacy. He keeps the whole-cluster percentage high here for spice and floral character, and the whole bottle drinks like a mini-Volnay at a fraction of the freight. The 2022 is fragrant, fresh, and immediately likable. Drink now through 2030.