En Remilly is widely held to be the top cru in Saint-Aubin, and its location explains why: the vineyard sits mid-slope directly behind Le Montrachet, facing south on shallow, stony soil at the end of the valley that opens up to the grand crus. Etienne de Montille's vines are toward the bottom of the parcel, with a significant portion over 70 years old. The result is a Saint-Aubin that pulls off the difficult trick of being both generous (south-facing power) and crisp (mineral restraint from the rocky soil). Aged in barrel then finished in tank. Drink now through 2032.