Kirschenmann is a legendary block of dry-farmed, own-rooted vines planted in 1915 on an oxbow of the Mokelumne River east of Lodi, in sandy granitic loam washed down from the Sierras. The site is owned and farmed by Tegan Passalacqua (Turley, Sandlands), one of the country's foremost old-vine stewards, and Arnot-Roberts gets only enough fruit for 2-3 barrels a year. Their take is markedly restrained for Zin - lower in alcohol, silky-textured, and built around perfume and freshness rather than sheer power. A rare chance to taste an iconic California site through a cool-climate lens.