Charmes is the most archetypal climat in Meursault, and Charmes-Dessus — the upper portion of the vineyard, on thinner soils — is the most age-worthy section of all. Bernard Moreau added these vines to the domaine in 2017, and the Premier Cru bottling shows what the site can do: gunflint, exotic spice, ripe orchard fruit, and a hint of coconut from the oak, all anchored by serious mineral drive and bright acidity. The 2020 vintage gives the wine plenty of stuffing without losing focus. Drink over the next decade-plus.