Patrick Essa runs Buisson-Charles, a Meursault domaine quietly turning out some of the village's most precise and ageworthy whites. Bouches Cheres is a Premier Cru at the northern end of Meursault's premier crus, just adjacent to Genevrieres and Poruzots in the Goutte d'Or sector. It gives a wine that's tighter and more chiseled than the rounder cuvees from further down the slope. The 2020 vintage is structured and concentrated, with the ripeness that defined the year balanced by Essa's restrained hand in the cellar. Built for the long haul, and a name Meursault collectors should know better than they do.